Kids

We were told by several sources that, for Americans, a Moscow-St. Petersburg cruise is themost popular Russian travel choice... and for a couple of good reasons: 1) a dollar can still go a long way in Russia and 2) acruise ship is the only way to avoid the continuing travel problems of unreliable public transportation schedules and unpredictable hotel quality.

(Hotel quality and service are reported to be very good these days only in the veryexpensive foreign-built and -operated hotels.)

Why visit Russia now?

For Americantourists, the welcome mat is out, with obvious sincerity.

An American company, GT Corp., operates the MS Russ, and we were told by its president, Boris Kotlaysky, "It's become time for Americans to give Russian tourism anotherchance."

He was on board during this first cruise of the year to make sure that everything on the MS Russ was up toAmerican standards.

Most of the unpleasant things that you've heard in the past about travel in this part of the world have been true.

This has changed for the better now that Intourist no longer has amonopoly on tourism.

These are very interesting and hassle-freetimes to visit Russia by cruise ship. The old "Evil Empire" no longer exists; on our trip in May 1996 we found a Russia with a very human face -- coping with a whole new set of circumstances.

Even on our trip tothe USSR in the "bad old days" of 10 years ago, we found the Russians to have a genuine affection for Americans; we found them now to be even more freelyexpressing an appreciation for American tourists.

Travel value

Demonstrating that a dollar can go a long wayin Russia is the fact that, in 1996, GT Corp. "Russian Waterways' programs offered a 16-day package aboard the 300-passenger MS Russ (all outside cabins) starting at ,199 per person, double, not including, international airfare.

Single cabins were ,499. Fourberth cabins were perperson for the first two people, witha third person and a fourth person . (Take the children or grandchildren along if you can stand them in the same cabin.)

Prices included all meals, entertainment, shore excursions, transfers and baggage handling.

Theonly extra costs that we incurred were for tips, bar items and three optional trips: the circus in Moscow and ballet performances in St. Petersburg.

What to expecton a Russian

ship

There are 20 or more (new in the late 1980s) nearly identical. German-built tourist ships designed for use along the Volga and inthe deep water of a couple of Europe's largest lakes, Lagoda and Onega.

Travel safety tip

Those two large lakes can have sudden brief storms; we experienced a partial dayof heavy seas on Lake Lagoda.

A significant technical detail to pay attention to is the fact that only ships with the design designation "Project 301," "302" or "KU56" are designed for deep-lake use. Whoeveryou travel with, confirm that you are booked on one of these ships, one of the big, 5-deck, 300-passenger jobs.

We were told thata smaller ship, the Sergei Ensenin, in use on this itinerary, is not very safe in stormy lake conditions; it usually keeps aclose radio weather-watch and will delay transit of these lakes if stormy conditions are expected.

The cabins

All the MS Russ cabins face outside and have a large openable window. The double cabins have individual single beds(the quad cabins have bunk beds).

Each cabin has a bathroom/ shower, refrigerator and individual heating/air-conditioningcontrols.

We've traveled on this ship before in a standard double cabin; see the January '96 issue of ITN, page 80, or send us a business-size SASE for areprint of the trip report on our Moscow-to-Volgograd itinerary.

The standard double cabins are snug but quite satisfactory. The single bedshave specially ordered "orthopedic" mattresses but are a little on the small side for very tall or large passengers.

We managed to get one ofthe two suites on the MS Russ this trip. It was spacious and comfortable, with leather furniture in the "living room" and a king-sized bed in the bedroom.

These suites cost only about per person extra per night over the cost of a standard boat deck cabin;book them early.

The main difference in the standard cabins is the deck level; if climbing stairsis a bit of a problem for you, book a cabin on the "upper" deck. The restaurant is on this deck and you'll have only one deck level of stairs up or down to negotiatefor most activities.

Towels, toilet paper, soap and many other daily necessities are shipped in to the MS Russ from Stateside.

The food

Ninety percent of the food served on the MSRuss is brought in from the USA. Fresh vegetables and local Russian specialties are picked up along the way. We ordered our meals froma menu that mixed Russian specialties with traditional European dishes.

Our favoriteswere the soups and varieties of borscht (beet soup, sometimes with small meatballs). You'll find the food to be a pleasant surprise after having heard about the traditionally low quality of tourist food in Russia.

For example, the coffee and the seven kinds of salad dressings available are the same brands that we are used to serving at home.

Aplus every evening at dinner was live classical string music -- and a choice of wine.

Overseas breakfasts are mostly unsatisfactory for us; it's usually the high-cholesterol "American breakfast" of bacon and eggs or the equally poisonous European choice of greasy coldcuts.

We were pleased to see that the breakfast menu of eight main choices (which changed slightly every day) included our normal choice athome of hot oatmeal or other cooked-cereal dishes.

The tour ships usually dock two or three abreast and, as we walked through other ships to get to the MS Russ, we'd cheek out the various menus.We also had opportunities to compare notes with other ships' passengers. We think that we had the best of thelot.

We heard numerous complaints from other ships' passengers about their food quality and lack of choices. We even heard more than one complaint of nonfunctioning plumbing.

Miscellaneous trip tips

Go prepared todress up, if you enjoy it. We managed very nicely, however, without necktie, jacket or even semiformal clothing. Comfortable shoes andclothing are best for all the day trips.

Fresh film and a wide variety of toiletries and common drugstore items are available at the ship'ssouvenir/boutique -- at American prices.

Buy the guidebook "Russia by River" for at the boutique. It covers this itinerary in great detail.Invaluable, it's keyed to the distance markers along the way.

We carried our trip's spending money in cash in a money belt.

Traveler's checks are inconvenient to cash and credit cards are nearlyuseless. You won't have to spend a great deal unless you go overboard on souvenir shopping.

Weather/crowds -- We think that May/early June and late August/early September are the best times for this trip.There's a possibility of changeable weather but the assurance of smaller crowds.

In May and September, take warm clothing; you may need it. Umbrellas are always recommended. In late June, July andearly August, the weather is likely to be hot andthe crowds dense.

Entertainment -- We haven't touched on the great variety of entertainment that is provided aboard MS Russ or the immersion in Russian culture that is provided by language lessons, lectures, skits, fairy tales, tea/vodka/blini (Russian pancake) ceremonies, fishing contests, etc.

Ditto the amenities/facilitieson board such as hairdresser, ship's doctor, sauna, exercise classes and so forth.

Again, we refer you to the previously mentioned January '96 article.

The ship's band has a distinctive sound when playing Russian folk music or American"Golden Oldies." Buy a cassette of their music, play it in your car several times a year and you'll recall the pleasures of your Russian adventure.

Guest lecturer

Professor Anatoly Ivanov held the MS Russ passengers spellbound with his4-part, frank and open lectures on the status of present-day Russian politics, religion and the economy -- followed up by question-and-answer sessions.

We thought that his candid comments were soappropriate for a wider understanding of current events in Russia that we received permission to reproduce his taped lecture seriesfor complimentary distribution to the "inquiring minds" of ITN readers.

Send us to cover the cost of copying and postage and well mail you this insightful material that is guaranteed to make you more of an expert on Russian current affairs than "any otherkid on the block."

We are at 4341 Shangri-la, Placerville, CA 95667. If you have any other questions about this type ofa trip, feel free to contact us; phone 916/644-1084, or fax 916/621-2283.

Independent excursions